Thangnak
Approaching Thangnak the views open out. In the background
is the stupendous Peak 43, (6769m) sometimes called Charpate. It is a feature
of the skyline for much of the trek. Here Thangnak lodge owners (the two woman)
are taking supplies up. Loads are mostly carried in woven bamboo baskets (a
doko) using a head strap to support the weight.
Trek porters carry heavy loads with ease but if you try
merely lifting a load you'll find there is quite an art to it. A standard load
is 30kgs, and any of their personal gear is on top of this. Generally loads
start out at 35-40kgs and get lighter during the trek. This is one reason why
most trekking days are not too long.
Thangnak (Tagnag) used to be a high altitude grazing area.
Now there is a collection of simple buildings- simple shops and lodges mostly
used by the crew to restock and stay. Normally trekkers camp. Behind (west) is
Kusum Kangguru, a 6300m technical peak that is also one of the so called
'trekking peaks'. This class of peaks is better thought of as "limited
bureaucracy peaks" since all are real mountains, some very challenging
climbs.
Most teams plan an acclimatization day at Thangnak. There are several side
trips possible. If you climb the hill behind (the hill in the left of the
Thangnak picture above) this is what you see - the stupendous West face of
Mera. This face has been climbed! Acclimatizing sensibly is extremely
important. If you feel good, attempt a side trip. If you don't feel so good,
staying put and relaxing is best. Drinking copious amounts of fluids -
especially water - aids acclimatization, do read about Diamox and also have
Ibuprofen and Paracetemol handy for headaches.
From Thangnak many teams move to
Khare, at nearly 5000m. At least one rest day (two is better) is needed before
moving higher. Some expeditions camp just over the Mera La at approx 5400m -
where we are camped here. It is rocky although there are grass camp sites
further down.
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