Sunday, September 25, 2016

Thangnak

Thangnak


Approaching Thangnak the views open out. In the background is the stupendous Peak 43, (6769m) sometimes called Charpate. It is a feature of the skyline for much of the trek. Here Thangnak lodge owners (the two woman) are taking supplies up. Loads are mostly carried in woven bamboo baskets (a doko) using a head strap to support the weight.
Trek porters carry heavy loads with ease but if you try merely lifting a load you'll find there is quite an art to it. A standard load is 30kgs, and any of their personal gear is on top of this. Generally loads start out at 35-40kgs and get lighter during the trek. This is one reason why most trekking days are not too long.
Thangnak (Tagnag) used to be a high altitude grazing area. Now there is a collection of simple buildings- simple shops and lodges mostly used by the crew to restock and stay. Normally trekkers camp. Behind (west) is Kusum Kangguru, a 6300m technical peak that is also one of the so called 'trekking peaks'. This class of peaks is better thought of as "limited bureaucracy peaks" since all are real mountains, some very challenging climbs.
Most teams plan an acclimatization day at Thangnak. There are several side trips possible. If you climb the hill behind (the hill in the left of the Thangnak picture above) this is what you see - the stupendous West face of Mera. This face has been climbed! Acclimatizing sensibly is extremely important. If you feel good, attempt a side trip. If you don't feel so good, staying put and relaxing is best. Drinking copious amounts of fluids - especially water - aids acclimatization, do read about Diamox and also have Ibuprofen and Paracetemol handy for headaches.
From Thangnak many teams move to Khare, at nearly 5000m. At least one rest day (two is better) is needed before moving higher. Some expeditions camp just over the Mera La at approx 5400m - where we are camped here. It is rocky although there are grass camp sites further down.

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